
Building the KLyball 610
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Re: Building the KLyball 610
Thank you Kindly 

Turning into quite an OSI Junkie (HTFDTH?) Superboard II REV B-40K, 9600b, HC-05 Bluetooth, Superboard II Rev D, C4P rebuild- 502, 542c, 540B. 

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Re: Building the KLyball 610
I have an original 610 and there is no trace, but mine has a jumper wire between them.
C4P working, C1P working. 600D Replica working, C4P+D&N floppy not working. 505 board, 610 board, Mittendorf board, TOSIE hacker board need testing, PicoDOS disk untested.
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Re: Building the KLyball 610
Context?Steve Gray wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2019 11:55 pm I have an original 610 and there is no trace, but mine has a jumper wire between them.

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Re: Building the KLyball 610
Context :0). It's from a post farther up this thread.
Turning into quite an OSI Junkie (HTFDTH?) Superboard II REV B-40K, 9600b, HC-05 Bluetooth, Superboard II Rev D, C4P rebuild- 502, 542c, 540B. 

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Re: Building the KLyball 610
I have a short term memory problem. 3 posts and I’m fresh again

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Re: Building the KLyball 610
He He... 

Turning into quite an OSI Junkie (HTFDTH?) Superboard II REV B-40K, 9600b, HC-05 Bluetooth, Superboard II Rev D, C4P rebuild- 502, 542c, 540B. 

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Re: Building the KLyball 610
Hi all,
I'm (finally) just finishing off my 610 board.
I have it all hooked to my 600 and I can see the extra RAM that I have added...which is great!
Today I wanted to try and hook it up to a drive, so I set about tuning in the timing (as described in this tread by Jeff). I was able to tune in R18, R9, R10 (with jumper between pin 9 of J3 to pin 10 of J3)...but when I got to R19 (with jumper between 9 of J3 to pin 11 of J3) no amount of turning the trimpot makes any difference to the timing signal. It's always at about about 8us, and I want to get it to 6us. I also saw that Jeff changed out R20 to 10k, so I did the same, unfortunately there was no change at all turning the 10k trimpot has no effect at all.
So I'm a bit stumped on how to move forward, and was hoping someone may be able to share a few ideas.
Thanks in advance.
I'm (finally) just finishing off my 610 board.
I have it all hooked to my 600 and I can see the extra RAM that I have added...which is great!
Today I wanted to try and hook it up to a drive, so I set about tuning in the timing (as described in this tread by Jeff). I was able to tune in R18, R9, R10 (with jumper between pin 9 of J3 to pin 10 of J3)...but when I got to R19 (with jumper between 9 of J3 to pin 11 of J3) no amount of turning the trimpot makes any difference to the timing signal. It's always at about about 8us, and I want to get it to 6us. I also saw that Jeff changed out R20 to 10k, so I did the same, unfortunately there was no change at all turning the 10k trimpot has no effect at all.
So I'm a bit stumped on how to move forward, and was hoping someone may be able to share a few ideas.
Thanks in advance.
2P (1mhz 32k) - 502 + 8k + CEGMON + garbage collector fix BASIC, D&N MEM-CM9 + 24k, 540 (mono) [SOLD]
4PMF (2mhz 24k) - 505, 540, 527, D13 + 5.25" + Gotek
Superboard RevD - CEGMON + 610 board 24k + D13
Spares - 3 x 527, 1 x 505, Backplane
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Re: Building the KLyball 610
I should add that I have checked the trimpot, and it seems to be functioning fine.
2P (1mhz 32k) - 502 + 8k + CEGMON + garbage collector fix BASIC, D&N MEM-CM9 + 24k, 540 (mono) [SOLD]
4PMF (2mhz 24k) - 505, 540, 527, D13 + 5.25" + Gotek
Superboard RevD - CEGMON + 610 board 24k + D13
Spares - 3 x 527, 1 x 505, Backplane
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Re: Building the KLyball 610
I'm guessing you are turning the wrong trimpot (not that I have never done that
). Aside from verifying that the TOTAL R varies between 10K and 20K when you turn the trimpot maybe the C value is incorrect. There's not much else unless there is flux on the board in that IC circuit.

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Re: Building the KLyball 610
Hi, Thanks for the reply.
I'm pretty sure I'm turning the correct trimpots. And I've had a good look round the board for any shorts or flux etc.
I've found the instruction on how to tune the timing here within this thread, but also in the SAMs manual and also on Marks site (although his site has a mistake that could cause much confusion).
I broke out my digital scope to tune things more accurately. I tuned U68 pin 13 and pin 12 to 400ns (see images).
I tuned U70 Pin 5 (with jumpers between J3 pin 9 and pin 10) to 1us (see image)
...but now when I look at U70 pin 4 (with jumpers between J3 pin 9 and pin 11) I don't see any pulsing at all and the signal is at 5v !!!
I also checked that with the jumper in place that a pulse is arriving at U70 pin 2 and it is. Removing the jumper on J3 and the signal on pin 4 drops to GND.
*please note that R20 is still changed out for 10k as per the suggestion in this thread.
I'm pretty sure I'm turning the correct trimpots. And I've had a good look round the board for any shorts or flux etc.
I've found the instruction on how to tune the timing here within this thread, but also in the SAMs manual and also on Marks site (although his site has a mistake that could cause much confusion).
I broke out my digital scope to tune things more accurately. I tuned U68 pin 13 and pin 12 to 400ns (see images).
I tuned U70 Pin 5 (with jumpers between J3 pin 9 and pin 10) to 1us (see image)
...but now when I look at U70 pin 4 (with jumpers between J3 pin 9 and pin 11) I don't see any pulsing at all and the signal is at 5v !!!
I also checked that with the jumper in place that a pulse is arriving at U70 pin 2 and it is. Removing the jumper on J3 and the signal on pin 4 drops to GND.
*please note that R20 is still changed out for 10k as per the suggestion in this thread.
2P (1mhz 32k) - 502 + 8k + CEGMON + garbage collector fix BASIC, D&N MEM-CM9 + 24k, 540 (mono) [SOLD]
4PMF (2mhz 24k) - 505, 540, 527, D13 + 5.25" + Gotek
Superboard RevD - CEGMON + 610 board 24k + D13
Spares - 3 x 527, 1 x 505, Backplane